By Anatol Steven.
Patience is definitely a virtue. Six months after it opened, Peter’s Brewhouse finally got its house beers right.
The copper kettles stand visibly at one end of this big Bavarian-style L-shaped pub in the Old Town. The choice is usually of three brews – pale ale (blonde), dark, and red. Try a small glass of each for €7.50 or drink half a litre of one of them for €5. Pale sells fast, but we love the bitter dark and the fruity red.
Located in the shadow of the three-tiered steeple of St Peter’s Church, this jolly thigh-slapping accordion-driven tavern rustles up crowd-pleasing portions of meat dishes. With communal high-backed sofa seating, upholstered chairs, dark wooden décor and a stained-glass effect above the bar, you could be anywhere from Zurich to Prague. But that, of course, is the secret of its appeal.
Gigantic dripping slabs of meat are brought to the tables on spits, medieval-style: a skewered whole roast chicken – rip it apart with your bare hands – with mashed potato and grilled vegetables underneath (€22.50), smoked fried pork knuckle with roasted potatoes (€17.50), or the “fish trio” of trout, flounder and butterfish (€14.50).
Massive 450g T-bone steaks come on a hot stone with your choice of mouthwatering sauce. There’s not much for vegetarians other than the onion beer soup (€5) and there are few wines and cocktails and no flashy trappings. This is all about the beer and the meat.