But away from the nostalgia factor, laivas now serves veal cheeks with smoked porcini and potato gnocchi, deer tartare with truffles, sea trout duo with horseradish and dill, cod with parsnip and buckwheat popcorn, or plaice with asparagus and green herb hollandaise.

The emphasis is on keeping dishes simple, clean and – as far as possible – local. Burgers are made with local beef and served with foie gras. in another dish the foie gras is combined with blueberry and picked radish.

A soupcon of Japanese fusion occasionally creeps in, but laivas’ heart remains firmly in Europe. desserts include blueberry panna cotta and apple tatin with sour-cream ice cream.

Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto choppy dark blue waters. Exclusive residences are being constructed close by. Yachts and boats are being cleaned after the winter and moored outside. though a nearby road bridge lends a constant hum, a broad outdoor terrace will make this a fine spot in warmer weather, whether you enjoy your meals smoked, nouvelle nordic, or both.