Muusu serves high-end international dishes that come with such a flourish, for some diners that’s all they are – a visual flourish, consumed in seconds. As much fine wine as you can afford is topped up in your elegant glass by table-huggingly attentive waiters. When you enter, the smart employees are there to take your coat, if you have one. You’re directed to a classy table amid black linen curtains and stenciled brickwork walls. A cocktail is offered immediately, like you’re flying first class. Hendrick’s for the G&T? Certainly!

Muusu is a new brand of restaurant from the company that already has a spread of pricey and meaty eateries about town under the names Steiku haoss, Ribs&Rock and KID. The chef and Muusu’s concept have evidently been inspired by Noma’s new Nordic cuisine. So the healthy-sounding starter of asparagus jelly, curd cheese, pickled cauliflower, steamed leeks, snow peas and parsley olive oil (€6.70) is a culinary adventure to some, a lot of space on a big white plate to others.

To the hungry, at least the basket of homemade bread with Parmesan and herbs, or carrot and sundried tomatoes, is complimentary. The splash of balsamic in the olive oil has been boiled by the chef for a long time with brown sugar, we’re told, to make it extra sweet.

Given the size of the starter, you’ll welcome the main course with open arms. We even went as far as ordering the priciest dish, the Argentinian beef sirloin steak, fried asparagus and cherry tomatoes, balsamic-vinegar shallots (€26.50), which was satisfying, rare and bloody, just how we like it.

Muusu may turn out to win the hearts and stomachs of patrons who can afford its dishes, but for the moment our jury is out.